Have everything ready before starting. In a small bowl or measuring cup, combine flour and salt. Place cheese, sage, and pepper in another bowl. No need to mix.

Bring water and butter to a boil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat.

Add flour and salt mixture all at once and stir rapidly with a wooden spoon until it comes together in a ball and cleans the side of the pan. Continue stirring and cooking to release steam, until a film forms on the bottom of the pan, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir to cool for a minute or two.

Add eggs, one at a time, beating each in completely before adding the next.

Add cheese, sage, and pepper, and stir until blended.

Scoop into a pastry bag and let rest 30 minutes.

Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and pine nuts and cook until garlic is softened, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to very low to keep warm while you prepare the gnocchi.

Bring a large kettle of salted water to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and pipe dough into the simmering water, using kitchen shears to cut off 3/4-inch lengths. Cook the gnocchi in batches of about 50. Let gnocchi simmer for about 2 minutes, removing with a slotted spoon and placing in the skillet with garlic and pine nuts.

The remaining dough can be piped onto a baking sheet and frozen for baking as gougères.

Increase the heat under the skillet to medium and cook until gnocchi are heated through. Add peas, capers, and wine, and bring to a simmer.

Stir in Parmesan cheese, season to taste with salt and pepper.